No!!!

Yes, (evil laughter), another Mommy Blog (more evil laughter)!!! Life is a story, mine at the moment just happens to occur mostly at home, which means no sword fights or dragons, but plenty of peril, misadventure, and food. Like all good stories we will skip the boring parts (like laundry). So gird up your loins and let us commence with some real domestic adventures; don't forget your sense of humor.

Thursday, September 29, 2022

Laugh or cry!

 

“The devil...the prowde spirite...cannot endure to be mocked.” ~Thomas Moore~

I first saw that quotation years ago, quoted by C.S. Lewis in probably the "Screwtape Letters" or possibly "That Hideous Strength" and I'm too lazy to go look it up, as the writer of Hebrews says, 'somewhere it is written' I think I can get away with it in a measly blog post no one will read if an author of Scripture can!  But that isn't what this post is about, rather I've been aware of that quote for years but only this morning do I begin to understand its power.  I've been obsessing a bit lately about my narcissistic mother/extended family because I've also been dealing with one in a prominent place at church, have been for years, had she treated any of our other volunteers like she treated me, I would have been horrified, and I'm horrified I let it go on so long for me too, but I was conditioned from the earliest age to take all forms of abuse without question or complaint, to be a shock absorber and take all sorts of damage to keep the family's image pristine, or in this case, to allow the church to function efficiently.  

But I've been on a journey the last decade to discover that I too am a person of value and deserve to be treated with kindness, respect, and dignity, not to be walked on, abused, and repeatedly disemboweled mentally and emotionally.  In dealing with this venomous lady I have awakened what I thought were dead giants in my inmost soul, but rather they were only sleeping.  I need to exorcise the fiends if I am to find peace, but obsessing over it doesn't help, it only drags me down into lightless depths wherein a balrog might dwell.  This morning it hit me: laughter!  What is laughter but joy in audible form, and what is joy but the very light of Heaven for a moment shining upon a mortal soul?  And what do narcs hate above all else: the very idea of God, for they are their own little gods and will have none else.  They speak all their proclamations with the authority of the Eternal Word, though they weren't in the beginning nor are they with God they only think they are God.  They took the serpent at his word and believed, 'ye can be gods,' what is life but a journey back to Eden or a continuing progression into an ever darker and deeper howling wilderness, until all that is left of creation, reality, and perception is one's own precious self, like Gollum and his precious.

I am not talking cynical, mean, malicious laughter, cruel and unkind, nor even at laughing in the presence of the narcissists themselves, but rather going through that toxic cesspool of memory and laughing at the satire and parody, like perusing the Babylon Bee or the Onion, innate within a narc's own projected reality.  There is sadness in it, pain and sorrow and grief, but instead of turning it inward to fester, rather laughter will lance the wound and allow it to drain, to have the pain exposed to the light of day where it will shrink and be sanctified rather than remaining a terrifying shadow of doubt and dismay to be dwelt upon endlessly in the meager hours of the night.  I was close to making this discovery with our church narc once, I jokingly said something about 'I don't give a sermon when I lead music' being rather shy and not liking any sort of spotlight, because she goes on for about 10 minutes every Sunday in a teary eyed fashion about some 'thing' that has happened that week whereas I can barely ask people to stand!  The result was a fifteen minute lecture on how profound and prophetic of a ministry she had and how everybody else (meaning me) was just a weak imposter, she had been ordained of God to minister to this congregation and heaven help the person who got in her way!  I really wish I had a recording of it, my paraphrase doesn't do it justice, at the time I was perplexed, insulted, and somewhat amused, now I can laugh at it in delight at the preposterousness therein.  Now to exorcise a million other older and more painful ghosts.

My life really could be a farce, but perhaps in laughing at the various episodes I can finally find peace!:

All my Christmas presents and birthday gifts were always for her, I never got to keep or play with or even look at a single one and got in trouble if I dared complain (as a child of 8 or 10!) that my cousin and brother got toys and candy which they could rip into right away but I was supposed to sit on the couch silently and watch while 'my' collectible barbies were safely contained in a laundry basket to be taken home and secreted in a certain closet, where they would remain for decades, simply to decay.  She collected barbies, not me, but that's what she told everyone my sister and I wanted.  Three decades later I took six of them, removed them from the sacred boxes, now falling to pieces along with their clothes, and mailed them off to a friend who had three girls aged 7-11 who had 'weddings and parties, parties and weddings,' or all the fun I was never allowed to have, boy was she mad, but then again she thought I sold them (not that they were worth anything in their condition and there was no longer a market for them, I might have gotten $10 a pop but not the $20 she paid or the incalculable millions she assumed them to be worth) and was probably irked she hadn't done it first!  It was very gratifying that someone got some fun and use out of them even if I couldn't, and that was a gift far better than toys or candy!

I once got in trouble because she had bought some expensive and trendy jeans from a coworker for $10 and she was adamant that I wear them, even though they were heavy, thick unyielding denim and they were too small, particularly around the waist, but she had bought these trendy jeans and I must wear them, even though I couldn't snap them or breath or walk whilst in them, but all that mattered was the image not the reality or my health or comfort!

When my son was little we went to visit her once, the last time we went to her house, and we spent the whole evening sitting silently watching reruns of American Pickers while her foster dog barked incessantly at my son, who sat in my lap the whole evening (definitely not normal) in terror.  I politely asked her to crate the dog, as he didn't like kids and was equally distressed, but she bluntly told me I knew nothing of children or dogs, even though I'm a mom and have been doing children's ministry for years and a licensed canine medical professional!  My son wouldn't go near a dog for two years after that, I wonder who was right!

We had a manual car when I took driver's education at 15 and we had some very jolting journeys as I tried to tame the thing, but unlike horses, you can't just sit out the bucking and break the beast to ride.  I asked her repeatedly how to manage the thing, her answer was to yell at me every time the car jolted or to say 'you just do,' in reply.  Needless to say I gave up driving the family car fairly quickly.  A month shy of my 21st birthday, I took the January term off of college to stay home and get my driver's license, all I needed to do was pass the driving test.  I needed my license to drive for my work study job which was also a research project for my senior paper, if I didn't get it, I'd lose my research and have to start over on the paper and have to go back to working in the cafeteria, so pretty important that I get my license.  My brother had just turned 16 literally a week prior and she bluntly told me he had to get his license that minute while I could wait a few more years!  I had waited 6 years, he couldn't wait 6 weeks?!  Somehow I persisted and she didn't want to fight so we both worked on getting our licenses that month.  Sadly it took me three tries, at least she had an automatic car by then, but I automatically failed twice for turning left from the wrong lane.  I had never seen or used a two way turn lane before!

I finally graduated with my doctorate, and the first thing I hear when reuniting with my family after the ceremony was my grandmother (also a narc) saying, "well I'm glad that's over, let's go get our leftovers and go home."  And that was about it for congratulations from anybody save my fiancĂ©!

My high school graduation was looming and my mother decided she had to remodel the basement for the party, that was her reasoning anyway, though really she wanted to make the event about her.  I didn't relish the idea of spending my few free hours being yelled at/nagged constantly by both my mother and her own as we tried to hang wallpaper (even less fun than learning to drive a stick!) so I found things to do elsewhere, which wasn't hard as a graduating senior with a job, lots of activities, and good grades!  I even made one of those giant party subs (I worked at Subway) for the party which was held in the garage, but I never heard the end of how selfish and ungrateful I was and sadly I've seen preschool graduations taken more seriously than any of my own, at least as far as my family is concerned.

One day I heard her gushing over how excited the foster dog was when she came home from Target because he knew she had brought him toys or treats or something.  All I could do was think to myself she had never done that for either of her daughters!

When we adopted our daughter, after 3 years of waiting and within 6 months of giving up for good, I texted her the news.  Her reaction was that we couldn't name her the name bestowed by her birth mother (a very fitting and pretty name it was!) because it was too much like that of my brother's baby girl?!  Which was even more hilarious because it was autocorrected into 'analgesic' which is the medical word for pain reliever, which is hilarious as both my mother and my brother's wife are nurses and I too am a medical professional!

I wasn't much of a bridezilla at my own wedding, I was upstaged by my family.  My sister, sadly a bridesmaid, flew at me as a 'slave driver' when I asked her to help me pin six beribboned flower stems to the chairs in the sanctuary.  My mother refused to take pictures with my father, forcing the photographer to take more pictures of my side, containing less than a dozen individuals, that she did of my husband's side which had about three times that many.  My cousin never showed up but my grandmother insisted he should be an usher, a hint I wisely ignored.  The whole clan decided they could just take home the unopened bags of salty snacks my in-laws had purchased without asking anybody.  My grandmother complained that she had to drive a whole hour to the wedding when my husband's grandmothers had driven 6 and 10 respectively.  I was only planning to have cake and punch at the reception (early afternoon) but grandma again complained and bought $300 worth of ham sandwiches while my in-laws bought some salty snacks making for a nice little luncheon but grandma had to complain about the price of the sandwiches and said she'd take it out of our wedding gift, though she was the one who was determined to buy them.  We would be a family of two living in a one bedroom apartment and my mother convinced my side that I needed a 6 quart kitchen aide mixer as a shower gift which was bigger than my kitchen but boy did she make a show of walking into the shower, she was late of course and it was hosted by the church ladies, with it unwrapped.  Someone should write this up for a romcom or something!

I started a quilt when I was 15 but never finished, when our son was born (I was now 32), I decided to finish it.  I borrowed my mother-in-law's sewing machine and worked on it as I could, there wasn't that much left.  It really was pretty but when I showed her the finished quilt top, she said I should take it apart and start over because some of the edges weren't perfectly square or aligned.  I ignored her, paid someone to quilt it for me, and then had to use YouTube to figure out how to bind the thing, but it turned out really well.  She owns several expensive quilting machines but has never actually made a quilt!

She's always falling for scams designed to lure in people who want to make lots of money without any effort.  She bought three merchandising websites and paid someone so she would be listed 'at the top' of the google searches and assured me it was our inheritance, I'd rather have the thousands she spent on the scam!

I once asked if she'd drop me off at school early with my ten gallon aquarium half full of water, plants, and critters for a science project.  She acted like I had asked her to drop me off on the moon!  Thankfully my father could take me or I would have had to make the two mile trek afoot with my aquarium in my brother's wagon, which come to think of it, that's how she had my sister pick up the cat at the vet once!

She stayed home once for two weeks when my brother had influenza and I remember her being so concerned about him, fussing about how little he ate or drank or slept or whatever, as if she was the sufferer instead of him, he was never in any danger, just miserable, but the way she carried on he might have been dying of consumption!  Whereas my sister and I were never sick, or rather we never were bold enough to tell her.  I got strep throat a lot (stress!) and that was the only time she'd ever take me to the doctor, and once when they were probing my throat for a culture sample I said I was going to throw up, I was scolded for being a baby, and we had to switch exam rooms because I was right.

I remember her laughing at me once, so she must have a sense of humor, twisted as it is.  She had told me to come home on the bus after school rather than go to daycare (I was 6) and I would be alone for several hours until she got off work.  The front door was locked, in thirty years of living there she had only locked the door twice and this was one of those times, and I didn't know what to do.  I sat down on the step and cried.  The neighbor lady brought me cake and sat with me until my mother got home.  She laughed at my terror and called me stupid for not checking the other doors.  I'm pretty sure she did it on purpose, she's quite the practical joker!

I picked her a bouquet for Mother's Day once, bright yellow dandelions and lovely blue violets, I was so excited to give it to her that I was almost as radiant as the dandelions.  She turned away in disgust from that jubilant little fairy girl and muttered, 'weeds,' but that only shows her poor taste in flowers, for one cannot buy such exquisite blooms!

Once around Christmas, after I had moved out and was home from grad school for a little bit, my uncle and brother were going on and one about this most marvelous and benevolent gift my mother had made me.  I was absolutely flummoxed as to what they were talking about.  Those wonderful pans she had given me!  I was still perplexed even with this enlightenment, knowing that when I had moved into my little apartment I was bequeathed a mishmash of old pots, pans, and kitchen equipment scrounged from basements, thrift shops, garage sales, and the like.  My mother had given me a couple old pans as she was replacing hers, she had gotten a flat top stove and they weren't flat on the bottom so didn't work well, but they were good enough for me.  They were missing lids, the handles were falling off, stuff tended to burn onto the bottom, and they were thirty years old, but they would work well enough for a grad student.  I had no idea she'd turn around and go tell everyone what a marvelous gift she had bestowed on her penniless daughter!

When our son was born my grandmother gave us a swing and a walker she had from when my cousin's daughter was little.  I gave the swing to someone else as our son didn't like swings and she had a fit that she didn't get it back though I had no idea she wanted it back.  So when our son didn't really use the walker either, I dutifully took it back to my grandmother and she had a fit because what was she supposed to do with it!

One Thanksgiving my mother set the silverware on the table at my grandmother's house and grandma went around after her reversing the order and then my mother went back around after grandma and put it back!

I once asked my mother if she would be interested in watching my infant son for a weekend, her only grandchild at the time, thinking that's something most grandparents enjoyed doing, boy did I get a lecture on presuming to abandon my children in her care, she wasn't a babysitting service, etc...sorry!

I've watched her sit on the couch as the phone rings and lets it go to voicemail but she never picks it up.  I've been on the other end of those calls, 90% of the time she will not pick up and never returns a message, and when she does pick up, she wants to know what the emergency is, as if a daughter can't call her own mother on occasion!  So when I just quit calling, she did finally call me once in the last five years to chew me out for not calling, but then she complains to all and sundry how terrible it is that her daughter doesn't call.

I lost my job rather tragically and suddenly ten years ago and we were in the process of moving to another state for my husband's new position, I was literally in the u-haul while my husband was following in the car with our one year old son when she called to tell me I should make a slight detour, six hours south through a major urban area, we were driving eight hours west, so I could pick up some old dresser of my great uncle's.  She wasn't concerned in the least that I had lost my job or that my entire family was moving to another state but she was very offended that I declined her most gracious offer, but I had no room in the moving van, I had a set timeline, I didn't have enough allotted miles in my rental contract for the detour, I didn't need a dresser, I certainly didn't want to navigate a major urban area my first time driving a 16 foot truck, and doubling the travel time of an already lengthy journey with a sick little kid along really wasn't a good idea either, but I'm the rude one!

My mother once told me that my singing voice was okay but nothing compared to my brother's.  The result was years of awkwardness and thinking she was right.  I ditched choir in high school due to a scheduling conflict though I loved to sing, I didn't audition with any confidence for the school musical so never got a decent part, I never auditioned for choir in college though my school was renowned for its music program, and I never thought to help with worship at church.  My brother on the other hand never went out for choir anywhere and even ditched his poor bride at their wedding when he was supposed to do a duet with her leaving her to do a solo.  Fast forward a few years and now I'm regularly leading worship at our church, including playing the piano, a skill I taught myself, and I haven't killed anybody with my voice.  I'll never get a record deal but I can do well enough when need be.  So much for her career as a music critic! 

She arranged some pictures of mine in a collage to decorate one of her walls and goes on and on about how nicely she arranged them but makes no mention of the source.  She once took a nice picture of Loch Ness and spent ten years bragging about it to anyone and everyone, about the only thing she'd talk about during that period.

She went on a trip to the Grand Canyon with her parents and my sister.  She was so horrified by my grandmother's constant nagging of my grandfather for things like breathing, that she must have realized how much she sounds like her own mother and vowed to stop lest she too one day be no better.  The sad thing is that she didn't replace the dearth with anything, now she says nothing at all!

One Christmas when our son was little I got chewed out because she had apparently set up her Christmas tree just for him and he never got to see it.  The problem was she had never mentioned she had done or desired any such thing.  It had been a couple years since we had been to her house as she was constantly ragging on me whenever he touched anything so I figured it was better not to bother or imperil her stuff.

We live 800 miles from my mother.  I tried to arrange a lunch meeting in the town where she works as we would be passing through going to and returning from visiting friends in another state.  I spent four months and weekly emails/texts/calls to see if we could make things work on either of those two days; she never replied.  We would come to her, we'd bring lunch if desired or meet at the restaurant of her choosing, but still we heard nothing.  The day before, I finally texted her and asked what her plans were.  The only reply: 'I'm busy,' and yet she complains that she never gets to see her grandkids!

She lives on Facebook, at least she did for a while, posting and reposting all these funny cartoons and memes but never does she have a spare moment to even 'like' a post about her grandkids.

She actually gave me my baby pictures, the only copies she has, and I don't think it is because she's sentimental.  I also took my 'baby's first Christmas' ornament wrongly thinking at the time that she was actually being a caring person.  Boy was I wrong and boy was she mad!  I gave it back in a gift bag and bought one on eBay!

I was rifling through some of my childhood junk to see if there was anything I wanted or my own kids could use.  I didn't have much, but every item I thought to take was immediately declared my brother's and I had to argue about removing it from her house.  The couple things of my brother's I took I had permission to take.  I had also misplaced my grandmother's wedding ring (my other grandma, not the narc, it was valuable only for sentimental reasons) and kept digging through stuff trying to find it, which drove my mother nuts as I think she thought I was looking for something of actual value!  She also promised to find our old legos for my kids, but like the ornament, we just went ahead and bought our own.  Strangely my grandmother (the narc) had similar sentiments.  My grandfather collects electric trains and my father bought him a very nice one forty years ago.  He wanted to give it to my son and grandma had a fit, probably wanting it to go to my cousin, her little pet and favorite.  It was my grandfather's train, it had been bought by my father, it was still going to one of her grandchildren, what is the problem here?  I took it, mostly to honor my grandfather but I can't say ticking off grandma wasn't fun either!

In her spiel on God's gift to music ministry (herself) our narc worship leader told me that our congregation was too dumb to learn new music, that we couldn't sing anything but these awful choruses popular in the 1970s because nobody could or wanted to learn anything else.  I'd much rather sing straight hymns if that be the case, a strict diet of such was like a theological diet of fruit loops.  Rather she didn't want to learn new music and as that was all she could play, so must be the taste of the entire congregation.  I especially love that she told the entire worship team (gals my age, from varying church backgrounds) on several occasions that 'you know this song' when in fact we had never heard it before, let alone knew how to sing it in public, we could only exchange wry grins and carry on.

My sister takes after her mother and grandmother except her talents take a literary turn.  I read one of her books once, it was rather awkward and stilted, as she has no comprehension of human behavior and common social interactions and her characters show it, much like me trying to write a book on electrical engineering or the history of the Russian ballet without any research or experience therewith.  She also talks as if everyone has read her books and knows what she is talking about, mentioning characters and events in her books like they are Mel Gibson or the Vietnam war and normal people might actually have heard of them.  She also has a publishing deal with a major book company, which is always getting pushed back due to all sorts of random things (she should write a book about that!) it is always next year or six months away, and this began when I was dating my now husband, we just had our 16th anniversary, I'm pretty sure she's fibbing!

I asked for a racquetball racket for Christmas one year in college, she bought me a tennis racket, a very nice tennis racket, but a tennis racket!  I had to exchange it at the local Walmart for a cheap racketball racket.

I can't play the clarinet.  But she had bought the instrument and I had to stay in band from 5th grade through graduation for some unfathomable reason though I hated it and my instructors hated that I was incompetent.  She bought my brother a saxophone (3x the price of my instrument) and he dropped out in six months.  I had to do marching band, pep band, concert band, everything because it was a small school and anybody could participate no matter how awful.  I faked my way through 8 years of band, never actually playing anything and trying desperately to stay in step, which I also couldn't do.  I learn music by ear and once I learn the melody and beat I can then translate the sheet music into a decent facsimile on the piano, but you can't do that with a clarinet!  I can't count or keep a beat, I've tried desperately, but it just doesn't work, don't even get me started on my one and only aerobics class!  But the girl who can't sing can apparently play the clarinet?!

One easter I had invited my husband's family, my family, and even my son's birth family to our house as sort of a house warming thing and my mother was looking in the oven, wanting to be important and in charge, and about to tell me the roast was done, little realizing I was standing behind her, oven mitts on, waiting for her to move so I could get it out of the oven!

How small, how selfish, how myopic they are, their whole world is themselves and their reality and truth of their own making.  Your life is a torment if drawn into their nets, but laughter can burst the bubble and restore a right and proper sense of the true world around you, that there are such things as humility, kindness, and love!

Friday, September 23, 2022

All that glitters ain't gold! A gluten free cracker and Oreo cookie recipe

 I know better, I really do, but the pictures looked so nice, and the author assured me it works with gluten free flour as well as with wheat.  The result was a liquidy, sticky mess with no form or function with a texture of 10/10 on the crumbly scale: it was supposed to be a gluten free Oreo but is only fit for cookie crumbs.  I knew there was too much sugar and butter proportionally to too little flour, but she said it worked, ugh!  But I did just find a great recipe for gluten free crackers, sort of ritz like, that I also decided to modify into an Oreo recipe as well, and it worked!  So if you are going to bake gluten free, use a recipe developed specifically for gluten free flours, and when in doubt, eat Oreos!

Basic Gluten Free Crackers:

1/2 cup oat flour

1/4 cup corn flour (not corn starch, could use millet or brown rice)

1/4 cup corn meal (adds crunch but could use millet or brown rice)

2 T sugar

1/2 tsp salt

1/4 tsp xanthin gum

Whisk together then cut in 2 T of cold butter (plant butter is fine) until fine and crumbly.  Stir in just enough ice cold water to form a stiff, but not sticky dough (it should stick together but be a bit crumbly but not stick to your fingers or rolling pin), a couple tablespoons is plenty.  Add extra water or flour as needed to get the necessary consistency.  Roll out on a greased cookie sheet or silicone baking mat until 1/4 inch thick and cut into 1-2" squares or rectangles.  Poke each with a fork and separate by and inch or so.  Brush with melted butter and sprinkle with salt or your choice of seasoning (herbs or bouillon).  Bake in a 350 degree oven until slightly browned and crispy.  Cool on the baking sheet and then on a wire rack.

Oreo adaptation:

Use 2 T cocoa powder and 2 T brown rice flour in place of corn meal, increase sugar to 1/4 cup, reduce salt to 1/4 tsp, and add 1/2 tsp vanilla with the water.  Brush with melted butter and sprinkle with sugar (skip sugar if frosting).  Fill with your favorite frosting or enjoy plain.

Monday, September 19, 2022

The Greenhorn's Guide to Glacier

 The Greenhorn’s Guide to Glacier:

 

 

There’s a reason Glacier is America’s favorite national park, the scenery is spectacular and no matter what you do or where you go, there’s something gorgeous or interesting wherever you look.  But that popularity combined with a very short tourist season and limited roads and parking, means dealing with a ton of people, but it can be done and is well worth the effort.  All information was accurate as of 8/1/22, things will likely change in future, please reference the necessary resources before finalizing your plans!

 

Plan Ahead: we rented a cabin 10 miles from Glacier’s West Entrance and drove our car or used Glacier’s shuttle service to get around the park.  You can also tent camp, bring a camper, or rent a hotel room in or near the park, but whatever your accommodations of choice, you’ll want to plan ahead, at least nine months if not a year out, as campsites, rooms, and rentals fill quickly.  You’ll also need a vehicle pass for the going to the sun road, the only road through the main area of the park, and the passes are released 120 days before the active date, without the vehicle pass you can’t get into glacier, even to take the shuttle.

 

Vehicle Passes: in an attempt to limit crowding, the national park service has instituted a vehicle pass system (available at recreation.gov) whereby a limited number of vehicle passes are released to the public for entry into the main area of the park: the Going to the Sun Road.  Half of the passes are released at 8am MST 120 days before the active date and the other half are released the morning of.  Each pass is good for 3 days, we needed two for our six day trip.  You can also use a reservation within the park (hotel room, boat ride, horseback riding reservation, etc.) for the day(s) of the reservation.  We had no trouble getting a pass either day by logging into the system (set up your account beforehand) right away with the early release.  It was annoying but not difficult.  The vehicle pass is in addition to the actual park pass or entry fee required to actually access the park.

 

When to Visit: the Going to the Sun Road isn’t usually cleared of snow until the first part of July, or even later depending on the winter.  It was still closed until the middle of July in 2022 and it can snow at the higher elevations towards the end of August, so mid-July through August is the height of the tourist season.

 

Be Prepared: while extremely popular, Glacier is rather remote and undeveloped, meaning gas, food, water, and other necessities aren’t necessarily available when and where you want them.  The weather can also change quickly and dramatically in mountainous areas, ranging from 95 and humid to 45 and windy/rainy the same day.  Cell service can also be sketchy.  Plan on carrying water, food, bug spray, sun block, medications, hats, jackets, a paper map, and other necessities in the vehicle and on your person during long excursions.  While everybody recommends bear spray (and is happy to sell or rent it to you for $50) while traveling in the area, the number of people that actually are attacked by bears each year is miniscule so that may or may not be a necessity.  Sensible shoes are also a must, even the easy trails are rocky with much up and down travel, forget the sandals and light tennis shoes or anything new, bring a good pair of hiking boots or sturdy tennis shoes that you know won’t rub.

 

Driving: while going to the sun road is considered one of the most challenging roads in America, not to mention one of the most beautiful, I didn’t find it that bad.  If you are okay with heights and pay attention and don’t speed, you’ll do just fine.  It wasn’t any worse than the Needles Highway in Custer, SD or the Beartooth Pass and was less steep than the Bighorns and Teton Pass.  There is also far less wildlife congestion in Glacier than in places like Yellowstone (due mostly to a lack of bison) where people can be backed up for miles to watch a deer or a turkey!  Weather, construction, and time of day also play a huge factor.  There was minimal construction on our trip, the weather was gorgeous, and we tried to avoid driving in the middle of the day.  Also, it takes a lot longer to drive a mile than it does in normal places, between curves, traffic, and other factors.  The park is only 50 miles across but it takes 2 hours one way with no stops so plan accordingly.  It isn’t the driving that is hard, it is finding a place to park!

 

 

Go Early or Late: If you are going to less popular attractions like Many Glaciers, Two Medicine, or McDonald Creek, the rule is get there before nine or you won’t find anywhere to park.  If going to the ultra-popular areas of Logan or Avalanche, you’d better be pulling in around 7am.  You could also go around 4pm and enjoy an evening visit at the less trafficked areas.  The glacier shuttle is another option, we had really good luck with it, especially coming back but you still have to get up early if going to a place like Logan.  We were in line at 6:30 for a shuttle that started running at 7 and were on the third bus at around 7:45.  Coming back around noon we didn’t have to wait and had the bus to ourselves while everybody else was still heading out for the day.  We stopped at Avalanche and then had another nearly empty shuttle ride back to our car in midafternoon.  The temps are cooler, there are far fewer people, the light is better for photographs, and the wildlife is more active at dawn and dusk, so it really is a good strategy for navigating the park.  Just make sure to keep the shuttle schedule in mind (last one runs at 7pm) and know they might close the going to the sun road between 10pm-6am and plan accordingly.

 

Be Flexible: if there isn’t anywhere to park or there is a three hour wait for a shuttle, all you can do is move on to the next thing.  We tried getting in line for a shuttle to Logan at 7:30 but wouldn’t be getting on until 9 or later, so we drove up to Avalanche and then Logan to see if there was parking (there wasn’t!) so we kept driving and ended up at Many Glaciers (we had done Sun Point the previous day, as that’s where we finally found parking) well after 9 but managed to snag a precarious roadside parking spot.  We came back for the shuttle the next morning at 6:30 and then got to see everything we missed the previous day.  If it doesn’t work one day, there is always tomorrow, move on to something else and enjoy what you can.  There isn’t a bad hike or overlook in the entire park, while some aren’t as hugely scenic, they all have something to offer.  We wanted to do the Highline trail up at Logan, but the wind was so bad we couldn’t get more than a quarter mile down the trail without being blown off the mountain with constant dust in your eyes; we went back and did the Hidden Lake trail on the other side of the visitor center and it was amazing.

 

The Shuttle: we only used the shuttle to access Avalanche and Logan, where parking seemed impossible, but it went really smoothly and helped immensely in navigating the most congested areas of the park.  It really helped to go early and to go back at an odd time of day so we weren’t fighting the crowd.  While in theory you can get to the far side of the park and back via the shuttle, it will take 7 hours and 8 transfers so you really couldn’t do anything but get on and off the bus.  Instead, know where you want to go, how long it will take to do what you want to do, and make sure you can get back in time to catch the bus.  It is a free hop on, hop off service and runs about every 20 minutes and is a nice option, though you may have to wait an hour or more, depending on where and when you are going.

 

Wildlife: there are no bison and seemingly no elk at Glacier, but moose, white tailed deer, mountain goats, bighorn sheep, and both types of bears call it home along with a plethora of birds and smaller mammals.  Logan is the place to see mountain goats and bighorn sheep while moose are common around the many ponds, lakes, and streams throughout the park.  Bears can be anywhere.  Look for rosy finches, pika, and yellow bellied marmots on the Hidden Lake and Highline trails above the snowline and Harlequin ducks along McDonald Creek.  We briefly saw a moose and a grizzly from the car, but most of the wildlife is out on the trails so you’ll have to go out and find it.

 

 

 

Where to Stay: West Glacier is far more developed and ‘touristy’ than East Glacier, while most of the popular spots are located in the middle to eastern side of the park.  There are far fewer places to stay on the east side, but you are closer to many of the attractions.  You can also stay in the park itself at various campsites and hotels.  Gas, dining options, and groceries are cheaper and more abundant on the west side as are other activities like rafting, horseback riding, etc.  The west side is heavily forested with lower mountains while the east is higher, with more jagged peaks that have been burned in recent decades with some brushy regrowth that transitions fairly quickly into rolling plains outside the park.

 

Places to Go and Things to See:

 

Polebridge: we didn’t visit this NW section of the park, as it requires a separate permit and is best explored with an off-road vehicle.

 

Many Glaciers: the entrance is north of the east entrance to the park, no permit is required but get there before nine to find parking.  You can hike out to the Grinnell glacier for a wonderful view (if you don’t mind a 10+ mile hike!).  We hiked to Red Rock Falls past a couple small lakes which made for a nice day.  You can take a boat ride on the lakes or take in the historic chalet.  

 

Two Medicine: the entrance to this section of the park is found near the town of East Glacier and doesn’t require a permit.  Get there before nine to find a parking spot.  Enjoy several nice waterfalls including Running Eagle and Aster Falls, hike up to the Aster Park overlook for a view of both lakes and the mountains, the path runs by several small lakes where you might see a moose.  Rent a canoe or take a boat tour on the gorgeous lakes.  The Apistoki falls were rather underwhelming but the wildflowers were stunning.

 

 

St. Mary/Sun Point: this is the East entrance to the park and requires a vehicle permit to enter and is the eastern end of the Going to the Sun Road.  Sun Rift Gorge is gorgeous.  Park at Sun Point and hike past three waterfalls including Baring, St. Mary, and Virginia falls along the shore of the ridiculously blue St. Mary Lake with wonderful mountain views in every direction.

 

 

Logan: probably the most popular area of the park, located 18 miles west of St. Mary on the Going to the Sun Road and the origination point for the popular Hidden Lake and Highline trails.  Get there before 7am to find parking or take the shuttle.  Hidden Lake is a board walk trail straight up the side of a mountain, it is listed as Hard but is very doable if you take it slow; you’ll find a plethora of wildflowers, melting snow and running water, wonderful vistas, mountain goats, and rosy finches.  Highline is Glacier’s most iconic trail, the pedestrian version of the Going to the Sun Road and runs for miles into the alpine wilderness.  Bighorn sheep and wonderful vistas await, but it is a narrow trail along a steep mountainside and shouldn’t be trod lightly.  We actually turned back after a quarter of a mile as our five year old probably couldn’t handle it and the wind was blowing 40 mph and whipping the dust into your eyes making for a miserable experience, but if you can handle the heights it is said to be an amazing experience.

 

 

Avalanche: located in about the middle of the park, this is a popular campground and hiking area, get up early or take the shuttle.  The Trail of the Cedars is a one mile boardwalk loop through an old growth cedar forest with an amazing waterfall at one end, you might even see an Ewok or two in the area.  We continued on to Avalanche lake from the Cedar trail through a climbing cedar wood to a small lake fed by spectacular cataracts of glacier melt plummeting from the summit.

 

 

McDonald Creek/John’s Lake: located at the east end of McDonald lake, this is a nice place for a late afternoon hike and seems to be less crowded than other areas of the park.  Hike along a rushing blue river full of rapids, falls, and colorful rocks.  Look for Harlequin ducks and dippers on the river and moose in the ponds.

 

 

McDonald Lake/Apgar: this is the West entrance to the park and the west side of the Going to the Sun road, a vehicle permit is required.  This is where we parked to take the shuttle to Logan/Avalanche.  Apparently sunset at Lake McDonald is quite an experience.  We spent a little time splashing in the lake and skipping stones one afternoon, but as we were always up at a horrendous hour, we never stayed up that late!